Domaine Dujac Bonnes Mares Grand Cru Pinot Noir 2008

Lewis Chester

2008 vintage. Bonnes Mares from Dujac. Surprisingly dark ruby for a Pinot, although still in the medium category. Aromas of mulberries, coffee bean, with some reductive notes (attractive). Dark berry fruit profile, with some earthy character, edging towards shit farmyard smells. On the palate, there's attractive ripe fine-grained but plentiful tannins, which work well with the acidity which is bright and clean. The texture starts silky but doesn't end so. The finish is long. Overall, approachable and enjoyable, but not mind-blowing or memorable. NB: after 2 hours of air, the wine has gained in floral aromatics - rose water, lavender - more in keeping with the Chambolle appellation. There's a smokiness that I didn't pick up on opening - perhaps some slight reduction. 3 hours with air: ok, I said this wasn't memorable...it's getting there! The nose is now fab: roasted meats, smoke, even pencil sharpenings. Bacon fat (not that I would know, Rabbi!) and more of the mulberries I spotted on opening - though the coffee has gone. Licorice, menthol cigarette. Wow. This is getting there. A slow burn. But worth the wait.