Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese Riesling 2021

Will Stanley

I’ve enjoyed several wines now from the 2021 Mosel vintage, a vintage that I personally adore for its classicism, and its departure from the current trend of warm, dry and short growing seasons in the region. J. J. Prüm’s WSU Spätlese from this overlooked vintage is an absolutely sensational young riesling that, for me, represents a benchmark of what this region (and winery) can produce. The nose is fresh, clear, like an alpine stream, truly elevating and disarmingly pure scented. A meadow of flowers, freshly squeezed lime, wet stones, petrichor. It is utterly pristine on the palate: sea salt, a medley of tropical fruit slightly underripe, fresh lime, hazelnuts, flecks of lavender. Enormous presence, but huge acidity from this cold, long growing season which, really, is how these wines were always made. A monumental finish that persists for almost a minute. This is up there with the greatest Mosel wines I’ve ever enjoyed. I’m pretty chuffed to have bought this wine and most of their range in multiple formats in 2021, and I’ll hold on to those for the next forty years!