Domaine Cottenceau Bourgogne Aligoté 2020

Maxime’s Bourgogne Aligoté has to be one of the more perfect specimens we’ve ever put our lips to – and that’s saying a lot! Here is Aligoté at its most expressive, with citrus galore and so much profound white fruit, lovely and lacy and endlessly complex. The family’s vineyard in Buxy was planted in 1945, so these very old vines deliver up just a handful of bunches each vintage – but what soul, what complexity, what a treasure in old-vine Aligoté.

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