If youand#39;ve not yet heard of M. Darnaud, you are certainly not alone. Although he has been making some especially eye-catching wines since 2001, he does not yet have much of a presence in the US andmdash; yet being the operative word there. Although he never attended wine school, Emmanuel trained under his father-in-law, Bernard Faurie, a legend in the Rhone whom Kermit Lynch calls the andldquo;wise old man of the hill (the hill of Hermitage that is), the last of the Mohicans.andrdquo; His own methods are geared to turn out wines of a similarly transparent expression, though they come from the more humble Crozes-Hermitage. Crozes is large and quite variable in quality, but Emmanueland#39;s wines would give some serious wines from Hermitage a run for their money. Au Fil du Temps made from a strict selection of grapes from Darnaudand#39;s top parcel of Syrah. This is not your typical luxury cuvandeacute;e from the Rhone. Itand#39;s not defined by new wood or pushed extraction. Emmanuel has 17 different parcels in Crozes, each of which is vinified separately, and this is simply the one that he considers to be better than the rest.
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