Domaine Denis Mortet Mes Cinq Terroirs Gevrey-Chambertin Pinot Noir 2013

In the vineyard chez Mortet, much continues as it did under his father Denis, as Allen Meadows reported back in 2009: andldquo;grower after grower spoke admiringly of how Arnaud has picked up right where his father left off. I should add that compliments from colleagues when it concerns vineyard work are given sparingly in Burgundy.andrdquo;andnbsp; Hard work and constant contact and familiarity with the vines are as important as ever here. The main change over the past few vintages has been in the cellar, where Arnaud has strayed from his father's tendency towards pushed extraction and toasty new wood towards a more finessed, subtle and lifted wine. Though his father was leaning more towards this style in his later vintages, Arnaud has really seen it through. The wines are still very much intense, but they are not as brooding and dark-fruited in their youth as they were under Denis. This change in style is in no small part thanks to the guidance of one of his closest friends and mentors, Eric Rousseau.

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