Alessandro e Gian Natale Fantino Laboro Disobedient Barolo Nebbiolo 2010

Brothers Alessandro andamp; Gian Natale Fantino are running, as Antonio Galloni describes it, andldquo;one of the last remaining top-flight under the radar estates in Piedmont.andrdquo; These wines took us by surprise recently, but they are not new to the Piedmont scene. Alessandro was the winemaker and vineyard manager for Bartolo Mascarello from 1978 to 1998 before returning to his family's property. The brothers work under the same classic principles at their own historic property in Bussia, right in the heart of Monforte d'Alba. Laboro Disobedient is a happy accident of a wine that the Fantino brothers first produced in 2005. They were a little late in submitting their Barolo for DOCG Riserva classification and instead of pushing the issue, they simply decided to bottle the wine with a humorous label as a humble 'Vino Rosso.' It has now become a tradition at the property. The grapes for this wine come from the brothersand#39; 60+ year old, south facing vines in Bussia. Although the Vino Rossoandnbsp;status seems to limit the price of the bottle, it clearly has not limited the quality of the wine. The fact that you can access a Riserva level wine of this incredible class and balance for this price from one of the most lauded vintages in recent Piedmont history is a little bit ridiculous. Do yourself a favor and don't look a gift horse in the mouth.

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