Two Absolute Stunners from the Jura
March 23rd, 2018
If you see the labels in the above picture, they're probably ringing a bell. I've offered the red wines from Fabrice Dodane, proprietor of Domaine Saint Pierre, a few times already and, each time, they sold out within a day, and you all gave them some pretty rave reviews.
Today, I'm offering two of his whites - two of his top (non-Jaune) whites, to be more precise - the Savagnin de Voille 2010 and the Chardonnay Chateau Renard 2014.
Before I get into the details, I'll say this...they both -
- are certified organic
- have a few vintages under their belt
- are stunningly delicious
- are priced at over 20% off, with further discounts on quantity
...so you've for that going for you...which is nice...
Getting back to my original train of thought, as much as I adore the reds of the Jura, most hardcore Jura nuts will tell you that, when it comes to understanding what makes this region truly great, it's all about the whites.
There are two main styles of non-Jaune whites in the Jura, Sous Voile (the veil) and ouillé (or 'topped up'). There's a lot more detail I'm sure that I can go into, but the main thing you need to know (if you don't already, of course) is that Sous Voile wines are aged in barrel under a 'veil' of yeast that forms on the surface of the wine (similar to Sherry), while the Ouillé wines are topped off with more wine.
The former develops an oxidative quality (nutty, dense, waxy, savory) while the latter develops a fresher overall feel. They display whispers of that highly-evolved, waxy, oxidative quality, yet they maintain fantastic precision, energy and balance.
So today we have one of each. The Chateau Renard 2014, made of Chardonnay, is a fabulously fresh white wine with creamy, fruit-and-flower aromas, oily-textured mouthfeel and an intoxicating, lively palate that mixes the fresh, floral, creamy notes with a very subtle briny, cheesy, nuttiness at the finish. It's as delicious and fantastically layered a wine as you can hope for, especially at a mere $25!
The other wine we have is the Savagnin de Voile 2010, which is as classic and traditional a Jura wine as you'll encounter. Yes, it's oxidative, but it's not nearly as intense as a sherry, and it displays all those wonderfully bright, floral, vibrant characteristics, as well.
For me, the best way to describe it is that it's essentially the flip-side of the ouillé Renard - the savory, nutty, cheesy elements are more up front here, and that lovely, bright, flowery energy is what happily lurks beneath.
If you're not familiar with this style, do not be afraid of it. Despite what I've described above (which may make it sound a bit niche), this wine is surprisingly versatile. Poultry, game birds or roast pork are a favorite pairing of mine, as are nutty cheeses.
If you haven't tried a wine in this style, you really owe it to yourself to give it a shot. Yes, it takes a bit of an adjustment in terms of mental approach, but it's so worth it.
The 'Ah-Ha' moment with Jura whites is one of the truly special ones in all of wine.
And when you're getting two options that are as typical, as well-developed and as well-priced as these two are, now's as good a time as any to pursue that moment.
To all you longtime Jura fans out there, if Fabrice's wines aren't on your radar, they definitely should be!
So it's time to change that...RIGHT NOW...(!)
Matt Franco
MCF Rare Wine, Ltd
249 West 13th Street
New York 10011
mcf@mcf-rarewine.com
212.255.8870
www.mcf-rarewine.com
WARNING: DRINKING DISTILLED SPIRITS, BEER, COOLERS, WINE AND OTHER ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES MAY INCREASE CANCER RISK, AND, DURING PREGNANCY, CAN CAUSE BIRTH DEFECTS.