Yvon Métras l'Ultime Fleurie Gamay 2018

Jay Kline

This was one of my contributions to the evening and this was easily one of the more compelling wines of the night, right up with the two 3.14’s by Foillard. While all the wines from Yvon Métras can be difficult to find, the “L’Ultime” is a unicorn. You hear about it; you read about it; you never see it. Popped and poured; no formal notes. The 2018 “L’Utlime” is about as deep, dark and concentrated a Beaujolais I have ever encountered. Yet, it remains unmistakably Fleurie…and unmistakably Métras as there were definitely some liberties taken in the cellar. That being said, it’s controlled and really lovely stuff. To be honest, I found this to be remarkably similar to the 3.14’s from Foillard however the L’Ultime is slightly more concentrated while still maintaining its trademark elegance. In contrast, the 3.14’s were a touch more structured and, frankly cleaner. Drink now with patience and through 2038.