German Chablis
March 23rd, 2018
How's that for a splashy subject line?
I suppose it could also be what we'd now refer to as 'clickbait'.
And, full disclosure, I'm conflicted in using it because 1) I think (and hope you feel the same) that the wines I select don't need gimmicks to be sold and 2) I've never been too big a fan of comparing 'Wine X' that's from a less-famous region (or in this case a region famous for different grapes) to 'Appellation X' that is super famous and is likely to draw attention just by mentioning it.
But, in some cases, it's kinda justified.
Case in point, today's absolute knockout of a selection, Koehler-Ruprecht's Chardonnay Spätlese Trocken Kallstadter Annaberg 2015.
There's a mouthful of a name for you...
But it's also a mouthful of glorious, white flower-y Chardonnay fruit, persistent textures and wildly mineral/chalky character that, and, again, I'm not trying to clickbait here, reminds me so much of the 'Raveneau-thing' that Chablis lovers go nuts for...you know the part where a firm, citric, mineral-driven Chablis gets that crazy soft and cheesy and briny thing going on at the edges?
And then you're still tasting the chalky, rockiness minutes later?
Well, Greg and I were just (well, by the time you read this it will be last night) pulled the cork on a bottle here at the shop and me, having not had it since Franzi (cellar master at KR) poured the preview when she was in the shop about 6 months ago and Greg, having never had it, both instantly commented on how Chablis-ish it was.
I really like the wines of Koehler-Ruprecht, but I'm about to say something else that is likely to make some ears smoke as well. KR is known for their Rieslings, but my two favorite wines they make aren't Riesling.
Their Pinot Noir is a lovely, transparent, pure glass of Pinot and this Chardonnay is one of the better Chard values on the market from anywhere in the world that I've had in a LONG time.
And there's a lot of Chardonnay out there...
...and even more specifically, there's a lot of Chablis out there...
...none of which does what this does at this price...
...and now I find myself in the annoyingly familiar 'Man, I wish I'd ordered more of this' situation.
So, take advantage.
And if you want to entertain yourself, pour it into a dummy bottle wrapped in foil and take it to a tasting group with a bunch of know-it-alls and watch their jaws drop after they're done trying to outsmart each other about which Chablis producer they think it is.
Seriously though, what you should really do is just take it home and enjoy it, because that's what these kinds of really, really delicious wines are all about.
...and forget the know-it-alls...
Matt Franco
MCF Rare Wine, Ltd
249 West 13th Street
New York 10011
mcf@mcf-rarewine.com
212.255.8870
www.mcf-rarewine.com
WARNING: DRINKING DISTILLED SPIRITS, BEER, COOLERS, WINE AND OTHER ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES MAY INCREASE CANCER RISK, AND, DURING PREGNANCY, CAN CAUSE BIRTH DEFECTS.