Cerbaiona 2013: The One
March 23rd, 2018
Just a few weeks ago, I cracked the Brunello 2013 floodgates with what I referred to as 'the old standby' (Il Poggione).
Today, I'm happy to smash the gates wide open with the one of the most legendary producers in the appellation.
Along with the region's other two immortals - Soldera and Biondi Santi - Cerbaiona rounds out the Holy Trinity of Montalcino.
But, since Franco Biondi Santi died, we're all waiting to see which direction the estate heads and since Soldera is more or less out of commission in terms of availability for the foreseeable future, that means Cerbaiona stands alone at the top right now.
The first time you experience a Brunello from Cerbaiona is one of Italy's truly unforgettable wine moments. For me, it was the 1999 vintage, another of Montalcino's benchmarks that was quite similar to this wonderful 2013.
It was the perfect blend of muscular, dark Sangiovese fruit, rustic, leathery spirit and textured minerals.
The flowery aromatics soaring high above lifted the wine into the stratosphere.
And that was the young '99...on release...
A properly matured bottle of Cerbaiona, especially from a great vintage, is as profound a thing as Tuscany produces.
And that's the same theme we have here with this stunning 2013 Brunello. It displays perfectly both the power that Sangiovese Grosso is capable of, but without compromising the rustic, ethereal beauty that the grape can achieve...and it's built to age for many years to come.
With the 2013, you can be prepared for another legendary wine that, as usual, is definitely a candidate for wine of the vintage.
While a lot of times I feel compelled to talk at length about the unique story or process behind a wine, other times I feel compelled to just say 'this is the best'...
Well, this is the best...
LATE SUMMER ARRIVAL
Matt Franco
MCF Rare Wine, Ltd
249 West 13th Street
New York 10011
mcf@mcf-rarewine.com
212.255.8870
www.mcf-rarewine.com
WARNING: DRINKING DISTILLED SPIRITS, BEER, COOLERS, WINE AND OTHER ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES MAY INCREASE CANCER RISK, AND, DURING PREGNANCY, CAN CAUSE BIRTH DEFECTS.